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Gardening InformationTips on Caring for and Feeding Garden Trees
by:
Hege Crowton
Once
trees grow naturally in the forest, the leaves fall about them, decay and form a nice soil. The leaves as well preserve wetness
in the soil.
On a lawn, however, the tree must contend
with the grass for wetness
and nutrients, and the leaves are raked up to prevent grass disorders, so that the eminent gardener finds it wise to supply nutrients every two or three years.
Feeding should be done once
the ground is workable, in the spring or in the fall.A difficult but worthy
know-how
of feeding is to strip the sod from an area all about the tree extending at least 2 to 3 feet on the far side
the outer branches, since the root system extends this far.
Apply stable or yard
manure to this area, spreading it 3 inches thick and creating by removal it in. Then firm the soil, rake it level and return the sod.
An easier know-how
is to drill holes over the same area, 12 to 18 inches deep and spaced just about 15 inches apart. Fill each hole with a commercial chemical (made up of bone meal, tankage, humate
nonvascular plant
or humus) plus chemicals, in a formula containing 10% nitrogen, 6% chemical element acid and 4% potash.
Because of the transpiration of a tree, especially in the hot days of summer, field
and specimen trees must be patterned
at least every 10 days in summer to avoid trouble. Since the roots are deep, light watering won't do. The hose or mechanical device
should be used for at least an hour.
If the soil is hard packed, loosen it with a fork. For a large tree, driving or bore a number of 1 1/2 inch holes 3 to 5 inches deep and 3 feet apart, below the outer branches. Use a canvas hose or cover the hose with a bagging sack and let the water run.
When planting new trees or small trees, if you put a few pieces of drain tile in the hole and put the hose in these, you can insure the water reaching the subsoil. Cover the drain-tile holes with stones to avoid evaporation.
Certain trees wish not live long if a fill of soil is arranged over their roots, or if a terrace of blacktop, stone, brick or concrete paving blocks is arranged over their feeding roots. Large, valuable trees should be protected with drain tile so that they wish get water and air. The bark should be protected from dirt from a fill directly against it. You can buy metal tree wells, 3 to 7 feet across and 1 to 3 feet high, or build a masonry wall.
The wall can be capped with a circle of bricks or a low wall to do an extra seat on the terrace. If you have several surface different than sod or earth about the tree, see that it makes not extend as far as the tree's outer feeding roots, and leave a circle of natural soil about the trunk. This can be planted.
Care for your trees as injuries occur rather than wait to call in a tree doc and allow a weakened spot to remain untreated. Move out all dead, decayed, pathologic or battle-scarred bark.
Do this by removing the entire limb, or, on a large limb or trunk, dig out the decayed matter, sterilizing and waterproofing the cut surfaces with creosote and liquid tar.
White lead or paint is not as nice to use as it wish not seal once
used on damp surfaces. Fill deep wounds with concrete. Use pruning hooks carefully, avoiding bruises.
Just just about the author:
Hege Crowton is an expert copywriter.
She is best-known for doing in-depth research before writing her articles.
Many of her articles are denote
on www.ezinecrow.com
and she as well makes a lot of writing for www.CrowSites.com
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