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Driving Tips for YouIn the Nick of Time: Your Car’s Curved Belt
by:
Michael Walker
Recently, my friend called me from a edge Farm
Queen in frenzy. His dad had been drive his Ford car down the road and detected
and awful noise. First, there was a squeal and then what measured
like a whip blow the underneath of his hood. They weren’t sure what was happening, but after investigating, found that a black rubber belt was half-eaten off its pulleys.
“Is the belt still on there?” I asked.
“Well, half of it is,” he continuing
as if the earth were ending. “My dad ripped the part that was hanging off and now only half remains!”
“Have you driven it? How many a miles are on that thing?” I questioned.
“Yeah. We drove it into the parking lot here. I think it’s got ninety thousand.” He aforementioned flabbergasted.
After a couple more minutes of my friend’s declamation just about his dad’s mechanical shortcomings, I took a risk and told them to slowly drive it over to my home (which was only five minutes away).
This problem seems all too common with owners of modern cars. The curved belt, several black and cracked, which had half-shredded itself under my friend’s hood should have been replaced long before. The problem could have been prevented.
Before this problem happens to you, you should be sure to check the belts once
you do a regular check-up on your car. If you’re a do-it-yourself kind of person, then once
you change the oil, be sure that you check the curved belt with each and every oil change (or if you use synthetic oil that doesn’t need changed as often, check your belt every 3,000 to 5,000 miles).
The curved belt is so called because it looks like a snake as it curves about various drive pulleys. As stated, many a modern automobiles have this sort of belt because it’s a lot easier (and less expensive) to install than older “V” belts; plus they last just about 50% longer.
A curved belt maintains its tension via a spring-loaded pulley. The belt connects to and helps function your alternator, power steering, air acquisition
and water pump. You should ne'er
break down on the side of the road due to this belt breaking from wear and tear. The problem is easily preventable. Just check the belt for cracking, fraying or if it looks aged. However, even as if the belt looks excellent, it may be time to change it. The time interval wish depend upon the recommendation from the manufacturer (see your car's manual), but it’s safe to say that it should be replaced every 60,000 miles, or every two to three years.
If the problem persists and you find yourself having to change the curved belt every few months, then it’s another issue. Most likely, there is a problem with the alignment of one of the pulleys. Many a times, there could be a problem with what’s called the harmonic balancer. Patch this sounds nice, this part is set on the front of the crankshaft. It’s ready-made up of an inner steel section, a rubber sleeve, and a block with grooves that the belt fits over. If there’s a problem with this, you’ll most by all odds have to check to see if it’s in alignment with a straightedge. If you notice it’s not aligned with the different pulleys, then take the car to a professional. They may have to come the entire engine over to activity on it.
If you take your car to a mechanic for an oil change, ask just about the curved belt at that time. Be sure that s/he has inspected all the belts thoroughly. If they recommend dynamic the belt, be sure that they use a high-quality one. It’s advisable
to use the better made, and most likely, the most costly (usually about 18 to 45 bucks). And, be sure to buy your belt from a respectable auto-parts store as several stores carry several brands and types. Ask your mechanic if they properly dispose of the belt. If it’s several person’s home business, you may want to take the belt to a professional mechanics shop and ask them if they can dispose of it properly. It’s a good idea to support Parent Nature in tune too! Finally, ask your mechanic if s/he did a test of the belt patch the car was in operation.
However, if you’re doing research on a curved belt, you’ve already won half the battle. Why not try and change it yourself? If you got several tools and a place to work, then you power feel quite “handy” once you see that it’s not that hard of a job!
First, you’ll want to buy a new high-quality belt. And, be sure to buy a block ratchet ready-made for your car. This wish allow you to loosen the tension block later. So, hopefully your belt hasn’t come off on its own yet. If not, go ahead and draw a little schematic of how the belt goes about each and every pulley. I like to draw it with as more detail as possible. If the belt has already cut off, then I recommend searching the Cyberspace for a schematic of how the new belt should be placed. It can seem difficult at first. Be sure you find a drawing for the exact date, year and model of your car.
With my friend’s car, we histrion a schematic, but still became a bit confused once we had snapped the belt off. So, we went to the Cyberspace for a back-up check.
Next, we took cutters and snapped off the remaining cut belt. This isn’t recommended. It’s better to locate the tension block (the block that keeps the belt snug on all the different pulley’s and pumps), take the block ratchet and push it counter clockwise. You power have to use another tool (i.e. a hollow bar) for additional leverage, as sometimes the tension block is difficult to budge. Move out the old belt.
Next, check the old belt and new belt together. Are they the same length? Is there the same figure of grooves on each? If so, continue.
Put the new belt about the different pulleys according to your schematic. Be sure that the grooves in the pulleys match-up to the grooves on the belt. You don’t want it slippery off patch driving!
Finally, if the tension block is underneath the car, you may have a difficult time holding the block loose and golf shot on the belt. Maybe there is a friend who could help you. During the aforementioned replacement of my friend’s belt, I command
the block patch he ready-made sure the belt was in-line with the grooves and that it looked good according to our schematic. Now, be sure all fingers are captive out of the way and slowly allow the block to draw itself tight again, thereby deed the curved belt to tighten about as whole.
Check to do sure the belt is aligned on each and every pulley, especially if there are grooves for the belt to fit into. If so, start it up and see if it runs smoothly.
So, instead of ending up on the side of the road in a parking lot at Farm
Queen learning a lesson, check the curved belt on your car often.
Just just about the author:
Archangel
Walker is a freelance author providing tips and hints on engine related topics such as engines from the JDM, used car motors and swapping engines. His articles are a valuable source of information for the automobile enthusiast.
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